I returned to Oranjemund in May 2009 for the first time in 25 years.
It was a strange, moment for me when I crossed the familiar bridge and after all the customs stuff out of the way, drove the windy tar road into the town. It still looked rather the same. There was the row of trees on either side of the road at the start of the town, the fork to the left for the heavy vehicles and the road to the right for cars and light vehicles. There was a 'Welcome to Oranjemund' sign which I don't remember seeing. First impressions were good. The town was relatively neat and clean. There were workers trimming the trees and mowing the lawns which were green and lush. There were sprinklers spraying water. The town still had that sense of orderliness and relaxed look about it.
I expected a reasonable welcome as Mike had told many people about me and also the book had certainly made people aware of me. But I was still surprised by the warmth and genuineness of the people that I met while in town. There seemed to be an optimism and confidence in the future of the town that was both refreshing and positive. I was introduced to many people that were passionate about the town. People that were optimistic about its future and wanted to see it survive.
From what I saw and analysed during the five days I was there, there seems to be four groups in the town.
First is Namdeb. Let's not beat about the bush. Namdeb is a mining company. Its purpose is to mine for diamonds and as long as it can make money, it will do so in Oranjemund and Diamond Area No 1. When it cannot do so profitably then it will seriously reconsider its options and this is where it's at the moment. Diamond sales and prices are down, so it's doing it tough, along with the town. Most of the mining is and will be coming from the sea, as almost all the terrestrial mining areas have been exhausted. It must be apparent to everyone that the old days of big carat quantity is long gone. So Oranjemund will never be just a company town and will have to survive by other means, whether this is from tourism, farming, conservation research or as a retirement type of town, and so on. Just before I left it seemed that diamond sales were picking up and there was renewed hope regarding mining revenues.
Second is the Namibian Ministry for Environment and Tourism. They are now the custodians of the new Sperrgebiet National Park (SNP) so have a vested interest in ensuring that the park succeeds and actually can get some tourism dollars, even if on a very controlled and limited scale. Marketing, promoting and pushing the new park is probably going to be the main concern of the Ministry for the next year or so. A guy like Tryg Cooper who is passionate about the new park is just the sort of person to get things moving. Let's hope he has some success. I am in the process of cooperating with him on a book about the SNP and might be back in September/October.
Third is the Namibian Ministry of Mines and Energy. They also have a big interest in Namdeb's and Diamond Area No 1's future. Namdeb is one of the biggest payers of taxes to the Namibian government and they want to see the taxes continue to flow into the government's coffers. This tax money is very important to Namibia. So they are watching to see how things develop and will probably use as much persuasion as possible to see that Namdeb stays around for a while.
Fourth are the people of Oranjemund. Those that work for Namdeb as well as those that have private businesses in the town. This is probably the most important group, from a social perspective, as they are the most affected. They are the ones that most want the town to succeed in the new "reduced mining" era. Some of the workers are not too sure that the town can survive without a big chunk of revenue coming from mining. Others seem to understand that it will never be the same and that the town will have to get the majority of its income from other sources rather than from mining.
How are all these rather diverse groups getting on? Are there consultation, meetings and committees and representatives from each? One would sure as hell hope so. There is bound to be a conflict of interest between the groups, so some sort of balance has to be met.
One would also hope that senior Namdeb/De Beers management is going to the Oranjemundonline site and reading the forum postings. This would enable them to get a feel of the mood of past and present employees, as well as pick up information. If they aren't, then in my opinion, they are the dumbest managers on the planet. Information is the most vital tool available to any manager.
A bit more about my time on Oranjemund. I stayed in a self-contained flat at Tom's Cabin and it was fantastic. He was a perfect host, friendly and full of yarns. He is also passionate about making the town survive. We had a braai on Sunday and it was great and it something that I will remember for a long time. Alfred, Mike, Jim, Jock, Mike, Tom and the Portuguese marine archaeologists were all there as well as some of the wives. And others who I can't remember. Many thanks to everyone for the hospitality; even though Mike and Alfred discovered that I was a Sea Point Boys High guy whereas they were CBC guys. Don't worry Mike and Alfred; I forgive you.
We spent hours recalling events and characters from bygone days in Oranjemund. Someone badly needs to write a book about the town.
I visited Ronald Kuffler, the chef who had worked at Affenrucken from 1982 until 1987, when No 1 plant closed and Affenrucken mess along with it. Ronald is in rather poor health so can't get around much now. We spent a few hours reminiscing about Affenrucken. Ronald told me that the single quarters was already closed when he got there – only the hostel was still open. So the single quarters closed between 1974 (when I left) and 1982. It seems that it was almost impossible to get guys to stay out there – so different to when I was there when there was almost a waiting list of guys wanting to get out there. Perhaps someone on the forum can tell us when the quarters closed?
Mike took me up to Hohenfels, which was off-limits during my time on the mine and drove me around town for a few hours as well as to the Pink Pan, which is now a rather depressing sight. We also walked along the beach from the river mouth.
I walked around the town a lot looking at some of the old and familiar buildings. The town has a good feel about it. Everyone seemed happy and at ease and there didn't seem to be any visible tension. A good sign. I sure as hell hope that the town can hang on.
Alfred invited me to dinner on my last night in town and I spent a pleasant evening with his family quietly talking and looking at some of Alfred's huge digital photo collection. Many thanks for your hospitality Alfred and Lientjie; it is much appreciated.
Affenrucken: The Return
I also managed to get security clearance out to Affenrucken again – that was the real purpose of my visit – to see where I had spent some of the best times of my youth.
There was a bit of a kerfuffle getting security clearance out to Affenrucken, as it was right in the northern part of the mining area and still highly restricted. But Mike finally got it all sorted out for me and I went out at 10.00 am on Tuesday morning, personally taken by a guy from Security who was fantastic and very obliging. We got on pretty well right from the start, and he said: "Just tell me where you want to go and where you want me to stop."
The trip out was great- the weather was perfect and we chatted easily as we drove out and stopped at various places: Beverly Hills. Mooimeisiesfontein, Mittag hostel and finally Affenrucken. We first visited the hostel, then the mess and finally the single quarters. It was a bitter-sweet experience walking around the place after 36 years. Yes – 36 years. A damn long time. I went into my old room, looked at the pool now filled with sand, the rec room and walked around the single quarters. There was an air of neglect and almost melancholy about the place now. But strangely I didn't feel sad about the dilapidated and abandoned buildings. I knew that this was how it would be. Nothing ever stays the same. But I was damn grateful to be able to relive those old memories from all those years ago.
On the way back to town we drove along the coast road and stopped off at No 1 plant which looks pretty sad and pretty derelict. We also stopped off briefly at Nos 2, 3 and 4 plants as well as Uubvlei. We arrived back in town at about 3.00 pm after a great day.
Thanks must go to Mike for his persuasiveness as well as Peter Shout to allow me into the mining area.
A few final words after a rather long-winded post. A huge thanks must go to Mike for his great welcome and friendliness as well as honest enthusiasm about the town. People like him as well as Alfred and Tom and others are what make Oranjemund so special.
I can't wait to get back.
Malcolm
Thanks for the report Malcolm. I do hope you have some photos to share with us as well.
John
Thanks Malcom
I travelled with you in my mind visiting all those familiar places
Great report
Nice recollection of visit Malcolm
Hi Everyone
I've taken a million photos, here a few I've quickly compressed and posted. Will post more in the next few days.
I'm the young guy in the middle with the grey t-shirt being crowded by Alfred and Mike (photo 4).
Malcolm
Hi Malcom ~
Thank you very much for the acknowledgement, although I'm not sure that I am too deserving of it! Once the "regulator", the Ministry of Mines & Energy, had approved the terms of your Restricted Area Permit granting you access to MA1, the rest was a straight-forward matter. Having said that, I am delighted you were able to make it to Affenrucken in the company of one of my "right hand men"! Although we didn't have the opportunity to meet on this occasion, I look forward to putting that to rights later this year.
Malcolm,
Thanks for coming back to Oranjemund for a visit, Mike and I have spoken many times about your visit back and what we going to do you knowledge and passion about our town amazes me, the walk through the museum looking at all the maps and comparing the circular concestions the photo's on the walls of the old mining operations ect. and last but not leased the chicken pies afterwards
Knowing that your trip to Affenrucken was so amazing rounds you visit back of perfectly
You can knock on my door anytime when you get back again
Alfred and family
Malcolm, if only Alfie and I had know that you were a friggin' Sea Point boys high old boy...... if only we had known..... :nono1: